Transatlantic Recap
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Transatlantic Recap

We have now been in Ireland for one week. It is a beautiful country filled with warm and welcoming people, and we have thoroughly enjoyed our time here. Since our arrival, we have been moored in Bantry Bay.

The picture above is of St. Brendan the Navigator (c. 484–577), one of Ireland's early monastic saints and the patron saint of mariners, sailors, and travelers. His statue stands with outstretched arms facing the bay, symbolically guiding ships into Bantry Harbour and celebrating the town's maritime heritage. Quite a fitting sight after arriving from our transatlantic passage!

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Azores to Ireland | Landfall
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Landfall

We made it! We dropped anchor in Ireland around 10 pm last night. The first sight of land was not as dramatic as our arrival in the Azores, but it was no less epic. Everything was shrouded in fog, so we could barely make out the land masses surrounding us. But the closer we got, the fog began to lift, and the sun peeked through, illuminating the cliffs and lush green hillsides. I cannot wait to explore it!

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Azores to Ireland | Day 8
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 8

Another day down. We officially have zero night watches left in our Atlantic crossing. God willing, we will arrive in Bantry Bay late this evening.

The weather the last few days has been cool and shrouded in fog. Everything is gray—well, everything we can see, which is only the sky and the sea. Ha! I have not minded it, though.

The winds were light and decreasing yesterday, but we were still able to sail for most of the day. However, we knew we would eventually run out of wind and have to motor the rest of the way.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 7
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 7

Yesterday was another really great day of sailing.

The winds were light throughout the day, so we had an opportunity to fly our asymmetrical spinnaker. We purchased her last year, so we have only flown her a handful of times. Remedy is a heavy boat, weighing around 14 tons. Her headsail and mainsail are made of heavier material, so she needs 8 to 15 knots, depending on the seas. If there is any significant swell that pushes the boat around, the sails collapse—flogging and thwopping—which not only affects the boat's performance but also feels like torture.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 6
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 6

One more day down. Three more to go. Yesterday provided more wind than expected. We were consistently in the 20s with gusts into the mid-20s. We decided that it was time to reef and bring down the whisker pole. The process was a touch spicy, but not too bad.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 5
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 5

Yesterday was another great day of sailing! The weather has been beautiful. Slightly cool and overcast. We have even had periods of fog. The winds were consistent at 15kts. The seas were settled, with swells around 3 or 4 feet at 6- or 7-second intervals. We sailed wing-on-wing—the main sail out to port (left) and the headsail out to starboard (right), attached to a pole to keep it filled. An added bonus is that we had around 1kt of current with us for most of the day, adding a knot to our speed. Remedy glided through the entire day effortlessly. It was probably one of the most relaxing days on passage since leaving the States. We even watched a movie, not a very good one, but it was still enjoyable to be able to relax for a while.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 4
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 4

Yesterday was a great day of sailing. We had a consistent 17–18 knots of wind, with occasional gusts into the mid-20s. Early in the morning, the wind stiffened rapidly, and we briefly saw 30 knots, which meant we needed to reef quickly. This happened just as we were preparing to jibe—turning the stern of the boat through the wind—so we decided to reef as soon as we completed the maneuver. But by the time the jibe was finished, the wind had eased back to 15–22 knots.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 3
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 3

Sailing is so counterintuitive sometimes. We spent most of the day today sailing somewhat backward, away from Ireland.

We’ve been hovering around this pocket with light to no wind, called the Azores High. When we left Terceira, we headed straight north to try and get above the high where there is more wind. But we have also had to alter course further west. Ireland, of course, is to the east. At one point, we had sailed as far as 40 miles away from Ireland. And yet somehow this is part of sailing. Rarely can you point your boat directly at your destination and sail a straight line there.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 2
Ken Cole Ken Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 2

Boat names can be intriguing. Some are a play on nautical words, others reflect the passion of their captain. The best boat name I've ever seen still belongs to my dad and his Hobie 16. Years ago, she was affectionately named The Other Woman for all the attention and play she received.

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Azores to Ireland | Day 1
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland | Day 1

One day down, at least seven more to go.

We have covered around 140 miles in the last 24 hours. We were able to sail for the first few hours, but then the wind completely died, just as forecast. So we motored until around 2:30 a.m. this morning, when the breeze filled back in.

The conditions have been very benign. We're sailing downwind in moderate winds of around 12–15 knots, and the seas have been relatively settled. Every now and then a larger swell rolls through and rocks us a bit, but that's to be expected.

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Azores to Ireland| Day 0
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Azores to Ireland| Day 0

We are underway to Ireland!

We spent the last two days preparing for our departure: doing laundry, getting provisions, meal prepping, stowing loose items, and putting the dinghy up on deck. Last night, we got one last gelato with our friends Doug and Shane. Saying “see you soon” is always one of the hardest parts. We met Doug in Beaufort, NC, before we both crossed to Bermuda and then on to the Azores. Doug has been our daily companion for 1.5 months now. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time with him.

This morning, we pulled anchor and departed Praia da Vitoria at 10 am en route to Ireland.

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Terceira Recap
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Terceira Recap

We have been on the island of Terceira for over a week. We began our adventure here in the city of Angra do Heroísmo. The afternoon we arrived, we learned there would be a traditional bull run in just over an hour. After checking in with the harbormaster, we hurriedly grabbed some dinner—because I was closing in on hangry—and then we rushed to find the street where the bull run would take place.

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São Jorge Recap
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

São Jorge Recap

After a week in Faial, we departed for São Jorge. As I mentioned, we had a lovely downwind sail during which we used our spinnaker—a sail specifically designed for light, downwind conditions. It was a beautiful day and a wonderful sail of just over 20 nautical miles.

We arrived in Velas, São Jorge, and decided to take a slip at the marina for a week due to predicted winds that would have made the anchorage quite unpleasant. It was tight getting into the marina, but Ken maneuvered us in like a champ.

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Horta Recap
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Horta Recap

Well, it has been eight days since we arrived in the Azores. And they are stunning!

The Azores are a series of 9 islands, formed by volcanoes rising from the ocean floor. They were discovered and settled by Portuguese navigators in the 15th century.

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Bermuda to Azores | Days 15 & 16
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Bermuda to Azores | Days 15 & 16

We made it!

We arrived in the Azores around 11:30 am on Monday, exactly 15 days after departing Bermuda. It was dramatic! The island of Pico, looming over us, with its summit peeking out of the clouds. The island of Faial, our final destination, has its lush green hills and Mediterranean-style buildings dotting the landscape. The beautiful blue waters. Just stunning!

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Bermuda to Azores | Day 14
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Bermuda to Azores | Day 14

Life presents you with a myriad of choices—everything from the mundane, like what to have for breakfast, to the momentous, like who to marry. I have made millions of choices throughout my life. Two of the more momentous were marrying Ken and embarking on this grand sailing adventure together.

In sailing, as in life, there are endless decisions to make.

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Bermuda to Azores | Day 12
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Bermuda to Azores | Day 12

It's a new day! After some much-needed rest, I am on my first watch of the day—the 12 pm to 2 pm timeslot—while everyone else sleeps below.

We were still in the front all day yesterday. The winds held steady at 30 knots, and the waves remained 10 to 13 feet. But now they were coming from behind us, pushing us forward rather than slamming into us broadside.

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Bermuda to Azores | Day 11
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Bermuda to Azores | Day 11

Well, if Day 10 was wildly unremarkable, Day 11 will go down in infamy. At least, in our lives.

We are all exhausted. The front that has been with us for the past 24 hours has tested all of us mentally, emotionally, physically, and spiritually.

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Bermuda to Azores | Day 10
Chrystie Cole Chrystie Cole

Bermuda to Azores | Day 10

Day 10 was wildly unremarkable. Yay! The winds were light, and the seas had mostly abated, though we still had some larger waves from time to time.

So we took advantage of it and tried to catch up on some much-needed rest, as best we could. Ken had trouble resting, which isn’t unusual for him. But as the captain, he feels the weight of what we are doing and the responsibility to make wise decisions in a way the rest of us don’t. So every time he lay down to try to rest, his mind was going, and he couldn’t sleep.

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