Ever since arriving in Ireland, we have debated two choices: explore the southern coast of Ireland or travel up the more challenging northwestern shores, much of which is exposed to the open Atlantic Ocean.

The southern coast would take us to places like Schull, Kinsale, Baltimore, and Crosshaven, where we could experience not only the beauty of Ireland but also its charming port towns. The southwest has forts, castles, old market towns, maritime history, and famine history.

The northwestern coast would allow us to experience Ireland’s more rugged and dramatic shores, with enormous cliffs and mountains plunging into the sea. The northwest has less development, ancient monastic sites, Bronze Age remains, Neolithic monuments, and rich Gaelic history, with some of the islands still speaking Gaelic. Sailing this route would also be more challenging. There is less protection and fewer places to hide when bad weather arises.

We made landfall in Ireland in Bantry Bay just over two weeks ago. The weather has been unseasonably warm. Ireland is on its second or third heat wave. When we were sailing here, we experienced many days that were cool, overcast, and foggy. This is more of what we expected. However, since arriving, we have had bluebird days with lots of sunshine and not a drop of rain. 

In the last two weeks, Remedy has been anchored in six different locations, each with its own charm. Because it was late in the evening and overcast when we arrived in our first anchorage, Lonehort Harbor, we did not really see much. But when we awoke the next morning, we were surrounded by flower-dotted fields and cows grazing and lazing on the shore behind us.