Scotland Part II
We arrived in Scotland on August 22nd. After spending one brief month exploring areas within the Firth of Clyde, we departed on September 22nd. One month is nowhere near enough time, and we barely covered any ground. But we knew our time there would be brief, as we were already late in the season, so we packed in as much as possible.
We spent a large portion of our time in the town of Millport on Great Cumbrae Island. It offered great protection from the stronger winds, which were becoming commonplace. But our time there was not only utilitarian. Millport was also an adorable, scenic small town with much to offer.
Our first visit to Millport was just Ken and me. As we pulled into the harbor, we immediately noticed a small group of people playing bagpipes ashore. Later that day, as we walked through the streets, we heard bagpipes once again, this time from someone playing inside a home. The bagpipes are achingly beautiful. Haunting, even.
If those had been the only times we got to hear them, I still would have been thrilled. But on a typical misty, gray Scottish day, we walked to the highest point on the island and found a family celebrating a beloved cousin who had passed away two years earlier. They had gathered in this place, which was special to their loved one, to honor her and scatter her ashes. As each family member took a turn scattering her ashes into the wind, another played the bagpipes. Hearing the pipes played at such a meaningful moment is something neither of us will soon forget.
Millport harbour
We spent time walking around the grounds of the College of the Holy Spirit, a theological college and cathedral built in 1851. For a while, the college operated as a retreat with guest accommodations, but due to financial issues, it ceased operations in 2022. However, weekly services are still held in the cathedral. We also explored the Garrison House, which had a small Titanic exhibit, and I spent half a day beachcombing for sea glass!
While in Millport, we spent time with our Scottish friends, Steven and Zahra, again, this time for dinner aboard Remedy. Steven and Zahra, both retired police officers, shared so many interesting facts with us about their country and culture. We talked about everything from religion to policing in Scotland to why team jerseys and colors are not allowed in pubs. We loved our time with them and look forward to seeing them again whenever we are back in Scotland next year (hopefully).
College of the Holy Spirit
With Zahra and Steven aboard Remedy
When the weather gave us a short break, we moved the boat 30 minutes across the bay to Glencallum Bay on the Isle of Bute. We had only half a day before the winds piped up again and we needed to be tucked back in at Millport. It was a gorgeous bluebird day, perfect for hiking the West Island Way, which offered scenic views, lighthouses, coastal vistas, sheep, cattle, and the ruins of St. Blane's church. This hike is by far one of our favorites since crossing the Atlantic.
St. Blane's was a special place. We spent well over an hour there, taking in the beauty and experiencing the stillness and silence. A Christian monastery associated with St. Blane was established on this site in the 6th century, though the current structure was built around the 12th century. I found the cemetery grounds quite interesting. The upper cemetery, closer to the chapel, was initially reserved for monks and later opened to men, while women were buried in the lower cemetery. There was also the grave of an early Viking settler, along with some medieval grave sites.
Lighthouse at Glencallum Bay
Remedy tucked away in Glencallum Bay anchorage
Sheep grazing along the West Island Way hike on the island of Bute
Remnants of St. Blane’s Church on the Isle of Bute
The time came to head north to pick up our friends Zack and Sheri, who were flying in from Minnesota to spend a week with us. We had met them randomly in the Bahamas three years ago, while they were there on their boat. We spent only a few weeks buddy-boating with them, but we became fast friends. We were so excited to host them in such a beautiful place for the week. After picking them up in Inverkip, we made a quick jump back down to Millport. The following morning, we started out bright and early, hiring e-bikes and spending half a day biking around the entire island of Great Cumbrae.
When friends come bearing gifts from the States—including a replacement InstaPot!
Biking around Millport
The next day, we sailed to Brodick Bay on the Isle of Arran, where we went ashore for a quick lunch before walking a couple of miles to explore Brodick Castle. The current structure was built in 1844, but its origins date back to the 13th century, when its strategic position overlooking the Firth of Clyde made it an important fortress during Scotland's medieval struggles, including the Wars of Scottish Independence.
After one night in Brodick, we left the following morning and sailed to Kilchattan Bay on the Isle of Bute, where we repeated the West Island Way hike with Zack and Sheri. They both named it a highlight of their time with us. After the hike, we hauled anchor yet again and sailed to Rothesay, also on the Isle of Bute. The next morning, we took them to see Rothesay Castle, which we had visited the previous week. We were also supposed to visit Mount Stuart House, but it was closed for plumbing maintenance.
Brodick Castle
Brodick Castle
The ruins of St. Blane’s Church nestled among the hills of Isle of Bute
Lone ram on the hills along the West Island Way hike on Isle of Bute
Hiking West Island Way
With the afternoon suddenly free, we decided to sail up to Holy Loch Marina, where we would put the boat to bed and spend a couple of days on land exploring Edinburgh. The sail to Holy Loch was blustery. Winds were consistently blowing 30 knots, with some gusts into the 40s (close to 50 mph). Thankfully, our slip was easy to access in all that wind, but it still took seven people (the four of us and three kind strangers who ran to help) to get Remedy tied to the dock.
As soon as Remedy was safe and sound, we hopped on a train to Edinburgh. The city is well over 1,000 years old, with medieval origins, and its dramatic, imposing stone buildings were a vision to behold! Walking through Old Town, with Edinburgh Castle looming overhead, felt like stepping back in time.
The Royal Mile in Old Town Edinburgh
Amazing architectural elements
Edinburgh Castle looms overhead
The castle is built on a volcanic rock foundation that was used as a fortified settlement, possibly dating back to the Iron Age, more than 1,500 years ago. The castle complex is spread out over 8.6 acres, with royal buildings, barracks, chapels, artillery defenses, courtyards, and walls occupying most of the rock, though the original castle would likely have been a much smaller hilltop fortress.
The castle itself has more than 900 years of history, having been built, destroyed, and rebuilt many times over the centuries. It has been besieged more than almost any other castle in Europe. Its oldest surviving building is the tiny St. Margaret's Chapel, which dates to around 1130 and is thought to be the oldest building in Edinburgh.
We also walked along the outskirts of Holyrood Palace, though we chose not to tour inside the palace. Mary Queen of Scots lived at Holyrood in the 1500s, and it is King Charles’ official residence in Scotland.
Looking over the city from inside the castle complex
St. Margaret’s Chapel
Holyrood Palace
Ruins of Holyrood Abbey, a medieval church on the grounds of Holyrood Palace
Last dinner together in Edinburgh before they flew back home.
We loved wandering the streets of Edinburgh and taking in the culture. We tried some traditional Scottish foods: Scotch eggs (boiled eggs wrapped in sausage, breaded, and deep-fried) and haggis, Scotland's national dish. Haggis is a type of pudding made from the liver, heart, and lungs of a sheep (or other animal), minced and mixed with suet and oatmeal, and seasoned with onion, cayenne pepper, and other spices.
After two days in Edinburgh, it was time to drop off Zack and Sheri in Glasgow and head back to Remedy. The weather has taken a turn, and the sailing season here is drawing to a close, so the race to London is on. We will be tucked away aboard Remedy at St. Katharine Docks, in the heart of London. While we are sad to see our sea-based explorations come to an end, we are looking forward to slowing down a bit and spending the winter exploring London and other parts of England by land.
Living untethered, but held fast.
We have so many incredible photos. Here is a gallery of photos from our final few weeks in Scotland.
If you are reading this in your email, you will need to click this link to view them.
